What I Wish I Knew Before Buying Drapes for High Windows

I remember standing in my first double-height living room project with a metal tape measure that kept collapsing under its own weight. I had just ordered what I thought were stunning drapes for high windows, only to realize I had essentially bought two strips of expensive dental floss for an 18-foot wall. There is a specific kind of panic that sets in when you realize your 'monumental' design choice looks like a pair of high-water pants.

• Always aim for 2.5x to 3x fullness to prevent the fabric from looking 'stretched.'
• Invest in a heavy-duty traverse rod; standard rings will fail under the weight.
• Choose fabrics with substantial weight or heavy lining to ensure they hang straight.
• Opt for a half-inch floor float to keep the hemlines crisp and clean.

The intimidation factor of two-story glass

Two-story windows are the crown jewels of modern architecture, but they are a logistical nightmare to dress. When you are dealing with 18 to 22 feet of vertical space, the rules of standard decorating don't just bend—they snap. I’ve seen beautiful rooms ruined because the scale of the window treatments was treated as an afterthought.

The sheer volume of fabric required is enough to make any budget-conscious homeowner sweat. You aren't just buying a curtain; you are commissioning a textile installation. If you get the proportions wrong, those soaring windows will make the rest of your furniture look like dollhouse miniatures.

Why standard width panels turn into skinny strings

The biggest mistake I see is people buying standard 50-inch wide panels for a massive window. When you pull a narrow curtain for high windows across a wide expanse, the fabric loses all its 'ripple.' It looks flat, cheap, and entirely too thin for the scale of the room.

You need fullness. My hard rule is 2.5x the width of the rod. If your window is 100 inches wide, you need 250 inches of fabric width. This is where custom drapery collections become essential, as they allow you to specify double or even triple widths in a single seamless panel. Without that extra yardage, the height of the window visually 'sucks' the volume out of the fabric, leaving you with sad, skinny strings of cloth.

You need a heavy-duty traverse rod (Don't fight me on this)

Physics is a cruel mistress. A pair of lined, 20-foot drapes can easily weigh 50 to 70 pounds. If you try to hang that on a standard decorative pole with clip-on rings, you are going to be fighting those curtains every single morning. The friction alone will make them impossible to slide, and eventually, you’ll likely pull the brackets right out of the drywall.

You need a heavy-duty traverse rod or a continuous track system. These systems use internal ball-bearing carriers that allow even the heaviest velvet panels to glide with a flick of the wrist. I prefer a recessed ceiling track for a truly modern look, but if you want the look of a rod, make sure it’s a 'heavy-duty' spec designed for commercial weight loads.

Fabric weight makes or breaks the drape

I once tried to hang a lightweight unlined linen in a soaring foyer. By noon, the sun had hit the fabric, and the panels started flaring out at the bottom like a tent. Because the fabric was too light, it had no 'gravity.' It just reacted to every draft and temperature change in the room.

When selecting curtains high windows require, you must go heavy. I recommend a 300 gsm or higher heavyweight drapery fabric—ideally a wool blend or a thick velvet. If you love the look of linen, it must be interlined with a heavy flannel or a blackout lining. That extra weight is what pulls the pleats taut and ensures the fabric hangs in perfect, vertical columns rather than waving around like a bedsheet on a clothesline.

How are you actually going to close these?

Operation is the 'hidden' cost of high windows. You aren't going to reach up 20 feet to pull a panel closed. You have two real choices: 6-foot fiberglass batons or motorization. Batons are the budget-friendly choice, but they can be cumbersome. Motorized tracks are the gold standard, allowing you to close the house with a remote or a phone app.

If the cost of motorizing 20-foot drapes makes you dizzy, I often suggest a hybrid approach. Keep the massive drapes as stationary 'show' panels that stay tucked to the sides. Then, hide a 3 shade screen or an automated roller shade behind them for daily light control and privacy. It saves your drapes from the wear and tear of daily handling while giving you the functionality you actually need.

The dreaded hemline: Puddle, brush, or float?

In a standard room, a little 'puddle' on the floor can look romantic. In a double-height room, a puddle just looks like a pile of laundry that collected dust. When you have that much fabric, any excess on the floor becomes a trip hazard and a magnet for pet hair.

I always advocate for the 'half-inch float.' This means the hem of the tailored drapery panels hangs exactly one-half inch above the floor. It looks incredibly sharp and intentional. It also allows the fabric to hang perfectly straight without being 'broken' by the floor, which maintains that long, unbroken vertical line that makes high ceilings look so spectacular.

My 18-foot measuring disaster

Years ago, I measured for a set of custom velvets in a great room. I forgot to account for the 'take-up' of the heavy rings. When the panels arrived—all 210 inches of them—they sat exactly two inches off the floor. It looked like the curtains were afraid of the carpet. I had to have the entire set re-hemmed by a local tailor who specialized in bridal gowns because no one else had a table big enough to handle the yardage. It was an expensive, midnight lesson in triple-checking my hardware height before the fabric is cut.

Frequently Asked Questions

Should high window drapes go to the ceiling?

Yes, almost always. Mounting the rod 4 to 6 inches below the ceiling or crown molding makes the room feel infinitely taller. Dropping the rod to the window frame in a two-story room cuts the visual height in half and looks awkward.

What is the best fabric for very tall curtains?

Velvet or heavy linen blends with blackout lining. You need the weight to keep the panels from flaring. Avoid sheer fabrics unless they are weighted at the bottom and used in a very contemporary, track-mounted setting.

How do I clean drapes that are 20 feet high?

Don't try to take them down yourself. Use a high-reach vacuum attachment for dust, and hire a professional on-site drapery cleaner every few years. Taking them down, dry cleaning them, and re-hanging them is a two-person, multi-ladder job that usually isn't worth the DIY stress.